A lazy painting day

Sunday August 6

In order to get rid of all the tools and ‘building’ parts we cut some pieces of wood for the lower back,  and asked Daniel for some of his larger plastic foldable storage bins.

We had some scrap wood left over, so I cut the 3 parts out of ti and Deb did the painting,  first a coat of semi gloss wall paint on both sides and then a coat of high glos hard yacht paint.   ( the next morning after some some rain I saw that there were some water drops on the center part.  The rear window is leaking….like most windows !…this will be solved when we re-do the back part)

 

 

Picture inside

Ghosts with Victron? Sanding, visitors, and movies

So the first thing I checked this morning was emails from Victron, if they knew anything new what to do with the Venus.  At the same time I logged onto the Venus own wifi and saw the Multi visible…..what …I emailed to Victron and asked of they could see it also ….. we are blaming it on ghosts!

Since we were getting guests I had to clean up everything, make the visible part of the boat presentable.  And before the guest were coming we had to get more milk and treats, especially for Timmy and his crew.  At the grocery we found out they were out of  celery salt ( for the cheese) so we bought celery and salt to make our own mixture.

I found out it was only Bep and Jesse ( who after 20 + years living in Holland stil does not speak Dutch, he understands it perfectly, but he keeps replying in English . “everybody speaks English in Holland” is his typical reply).   With some spare time available I started to tackle the sanding of the wheel house, and after sanding applying  ‘ontwerings water” . ( dewatering agent) . to get the water stains out.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

 

Finally got a text from Bep, that they were lost but at the local Praxis, so jumped in the car and brought them to the boat.

A nice afternoon with coffee and coffee and coffee, and Bep & Jesse had to go back home.
While we were having coffee, a nice 40 feet ‘yacht’ came in and I noticed the name “miles Ahead”,  reminding me of the movie Miles Ahead, about Miles Davis, which starred Mike Dennis our waiter from the Pacific Kitchen in Cincinnati.   ( Or as he is known in the restaurant “mike dentist”.  Mike plays the racist downtown cop.   So I had to get their attention, yes they named their boat after Mike Davis, but NO they did not knew about the movie, and would go get it.  So Mike D thank us for making you earn  royalties !

We decided it was time for Pannekoeken,  so we walked to the Wilhelmina sluis ( lock), which just opened and a big sailing scooner with a gaggle of holiday kids motered by.  I stopped in to ask the water height and it was on 2.75 Meters.  TOOOO low for Jan-Kees.

Deb decided a Mexican Pannekoek and I had a Shoarma Pannekoek

pancakes

Bottom is the shoarma Pannekoek, right top is the Mexican pannekoek

 

Heating

 Some calculations about heating.

The barge is divided in 4 spaces.

  1. Front Locker (with water)    3*2 *1  = 6 M3
  2. Main Living space, with the bathroom area   10 * 3 * 2  = 60 M( and bathroom area  1* 3 * 2 = 6M3)
  3. Pilot House   3.82* 2.23* 2  = 17 M3
  4. Rear Cabin   ( once converted ) 3 * 2.5 * 1.8  = 13.5 M3

There are a lot of opinions on how much energy is needed to heat the space.  Googling and asking installers for quotes.  Some put extra weight in measuring the windows, others just measure the size of the cabin, and each has a different multiplier.    http://www.calculator.net/btu-calculator.html.  Ron the heating guy, living close to the Marina in Zaandam  throws out 70 W per M3.  Hornbach suggests 100 W/m3

Now the Pilot is drafty, and needs to be sealed.
There is a door between the pilot house and the main living space, so that can be closed off, otherwise all the heat escapes to there.

Maritme booster offered a mini solo II for 17KW  @5485
Kabola offered 13,500 KW  a KB 40 @6573  @ 4 working days

Amsterdam average temp January 37 F (3C)   lowest 20 F  -6C
Warming 30 C (  -10 – >20)    ( 14F -> 68)

For the living room I come up with
Using http://www.calculator.net/btu-calculator.html I see 5.5 KW
Using Ron’s rule of tumb I come up with 4.2  ( Hornbach = 6 KW)
So safe to say 6 KW

The bathroom is already in that calculation, but we will ad a radiator which can warm towels (thermostat on radiator, plus it has to be ‘verzinkt’ so it can be better in humid conditions)

The frontlocker, uninsulated will just get one small radiator, to prevent he water from freezing 2 *3.4 *1 *.5 ( l*w*h*slope) 3.4 M3 (frost free thermostat on radiator 200 watt?)

The pilot house 1.5 KW  (thermostat on radiator) ( Hornbach =1.7 Kw) (frost free thermostat on radiator)

Rear Bedroom  1 KW   so we need a total of over 9 KW  so a 13-17 KW heater is sufficient (frost free thermostat on radiator)

Now space….we have  3 windows 90 cm wide  100 CM high so we can place 3 * 80 * 60 radiators  ( 2 windows are in the walk path, s we need to keep thin ones there, one window is in the string area, so we can use a double one there)
PLUS we need to put a radiator close to the front opening

radiatoren2.png

The radiators will have to have bottom connections, then we can use a shut of valve so we can remove a radiator when it gets bad.
The system has to be filled with coolant, to prevent freezing, since the boat is not being used year round.

Larger

Type 11   7 cm
Type 21   8 cm
Type22  11 cm
Type 33 16 cm

There are many discount radiator places. Some of the radiators I saw at https://www.cvtotaal.nl

Brugman Kompakt 4 Type 11 L800 H500   814 watt     ( about E50)
Brugman Kompakt 4 Type 21s L800 H500   1100 watt   ( about E 66)
Brugman Kompakt 4 Type 22 L800 H500   1474 watt   ( about E 90)
Brugman Kompakt 4 Type 33 L800 H500   2080 watt   ( about E 120)

with 3 windows we get 3 * 1474   =  4450 watt ad another in the front for 600 Watt. We can add one behind the sofa 1100 watt  and we are at 5500

Since we are modifying the wall behind the bed we could put a radiator here.   about 40 cm high, but it can be 160 cm long  (800 – 1000 watt)
Now not sure how we do the on/off behind bed…….

Now that could suffice, but we want safety…but we are out of places…so we can use ‘plint verwarming’a small heat exchanger with a fan under cabinets (sofa).  A kickspace.
https://www.remeha.nl
They can generate between 700 -1200 Watt   50 cm wide 10 cm high  they are a tad more expensive E350
But we can mount one in the kitchen and one in the sofa, and only turn them on when it really gets freezing.  The water has to be over 50C in order to turn on…….( but it looks like if you put it in summer setting it will always flow)
another extra option is a Webasto air blower  Madera 4 or 8  between E 200 – E500
(https://www.svb24.com/en/webasto-heat-exchanger-with-heater-fan.html)

In the bathroom we will put a small towel radiator, now why not do the same on the other side.   (one problem the left side is ‘covered’ by the door to the pilot house and the right used..the wall is storing the sliding bathroom door)

For the pilot house we will use one radiator and a kickspace

The lines out for the wall have to be spaced 5 cm from each other

A few weeks later,  having had more idle time on my hand I was able to create a spread sheet with more dimensions and sizes, and run a bunch of scenarios coming up with what seems to be a very good mix.   We want to keep the radiators on one hand as ‘thin’ as possible.  The size does not really matter much since it is just a curved wall, which along we walk.   So lets make the sizes a bit larger and then we can make the radiators a size thinner.
So now the thinking goes to   either of these .  each about 8700 W
Port side 700 * 900 size 22 -21-22  (2100-1700-2100)
Bed 500 * 1200 size 21 (1750)
Next to the sofa and behind the washer 700 * 500 size 22 (1200)

Or
Port side 600 * 900 size 22 -21-22 (2000-1500-2000)
Bed 500 * 1200 size 21 .  (1750)
Next to the sofa and behind the washer 700 * 500 size 33 . (1700)

Well Ron came on Wednesday, while we were modifying the layout.  And looking to placing etc, he was quite adamant about using size 11 radiators.  3 on the port side, which each will be around 900 Watt, putting radiators above the bed and behind the sofa , was a non-no, so we opted for the radiator unit blowing hot air out of 3 outlets which would give us 2 KW,    So Friday 28th we started on the starboard side laying the lines, and making sure the T was approx 5 cm from each other.  Marc kept being puzzled about the 5 cm, until he used the hydraulic unit to put the clamps on , and the opening is ….just less than 5 cm.

cv_leiding1.JPG

Wall opened up for the lines

cv_leiding_badkamer.JPG

We opened the walls also in the shower area, just so we could get the lines through

port_wall_end1

Here Marius and Marc are putting the last wall plate back, and leaving a extra connection on the port side for a radiator

The walls are made of thin poplar multiplex, so Ron suggested some ‘butterfly’ inserts where a bolt with phillips head can go-in.  Because the electric and water and cv lines are hidden.

The first radiator installed, and Ron is explaining to Mark how the connections work.

Here you see Mark making the connection to the last radiator.
Unfortunately Marius had installed the wrong panels when these two were cutting the holes through the wood, so the holes were not under the center of the first window, but by using the most right connections the radiator was hanging nicely in the center of the bed, and far enough back to have a good landing place from the steps.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Here is the end result

The day before we were leaving Ron came aboard to discuss the final install.    There we learned that the thermostat needed 4 wires,  and “why did you not install the hot air unit more complete and oh it also needed 2 wires”cv_thermostat_line

We had pulled with great effort 2 wires from the port side of the wheel house through a steel wall to the steps, through wood and steel to the living room, then removed the ceiling panels to pull the wires above the ceiling panels that way so they would not be visible.    We had made the trough holes as small as possible, so we had to gently chisel them larger, without cutting/damaging the first 2 wires we pulled.   And we had to add the 2 extra lines for the hot air unit.  So a total of 4 wires.  (IF IF we had known this before we would have pulled one round wire with 6 signal wires in it)  We placed the thermostat on the side of the white cup board and decided to just pull the extra set of wies down to the the bilge, lead them under the floor to the sofa and bring them up from there.

 

 

cv_sofa_air_unit.jpg

Here is the part of the sofa that houses the hot air unit.  On the side of the sofa there are 2 little sensors, one mounted high and the other low.  They have not been put in place because we could not find the correct nails/screws yet.

 

cv_hot_air_done

 

The blower unit is mounted on top of a tilted piece of ply wood on top of the neopreen rubber with zip ties, to minimize vibration.  To the left there is a control unit and the 24 V DC supply.

Layout

We have 3- 3.40 meter width, and 18.30 meter length.  the previous owner already installed a kitchen area and right across of it on port side the head and shower.  (the barg is 3m wide at the floor level and 3.40 M wide at the waist level, see more at the Sofa)

A bed has to be 2 meter long and at least 160 wide.  Since he front entrance is on the port side, and about 90 cm wide, we would be left with barely 40 cm to the starbord side.  This is not enough for a person to comfortably stand up and walk.  So the decision was made to put the bed sideways, where there would be a 100 cm walking area at the foot of the bed towards the front steps.

In order to have as much storage space, we decided to put the beds on top of Ikea kitchen cabinets.  The wall units are 40 cm high (nearly 16 inches).  we opted for 2 Ikea slat bottoms (Electrical adjustable) of 200 * 80cm  thus making a ‘2 person’ bed of 200 * 160.
This makes the height of he bed a bit over 50 cm.  Perfect for sitting on the bed and getting up.

A first we had the bed poisitioned 40 cm from the front (bow) wall, but that was quite inconvenient, since the steps came out to 80 cm.    So on the next trip we wil move the beds 40+ cm more to the inside , and adjusting the steps a little, so there is some space to walk past.

On each side of the bed we have two 80 cm and one 40 cm Ikea wall cabinet, In the front we have another  80  cm cabinet.  In each of the cabinets we have 2 drawers.

For he ‘dividing wall’  we have also two 80 cm and one 40 cm cabinet, with drawers and on top we have  60 cm high cabinets with doors, making the height 100 cm.  on top of that we placed a Lundia open book shelve system, so there is openness and yes we can close it off (with a curtain or so ).

 

 

A sofa

What is always lacking in a boat……..storage….so instead of buying a sofa, or a sleeper sofa we decide to build one ourself.  Wide enough to have 2 sleeping places, roomy enough to store a lot of stuff.  The commercial ones available are never as optimal as we could do it ourself.

Initially we were thinking of making it a 2 person bed, 200 X 200 cm, just like they have in campers and boats where in the dining area, the table drops down. Being L shaped it just became too too much of a hassle.

A few points…
Being a tad older, the sofa should be at a height that is easy to sit down or stand up.
The sofa will be against the ‘bedroom divider’ and one wall.
The bedroom divider is 100 cm high (above that we have to ‘open’ divider’)
There has to be space of some heating otherwise there is NO heating on that side of boat, most likely it will be a hidden radiator in the back and a fan heat exchanger on the floor inside one side.
The boat is 300 cm from side to side on the floor, but  320 cm at 92 cm high,
So the back of the wall one side needs to be sloped.sofa.png

 

 

 

So here is a drawing of the sofa.
(data in cm )

Later we wil make a sheet with the location and contents

 

 

A picture of it finished without cushions

there is a 10 cm space beween the wall and the sofa, so we can mount a radiator behind it for heat

 

 

 

With some pretend cushions here.

 .
 Here is the side profile with the wooden strip at 98 cm high
Heigth/dept measurements by Marius. So pretty flat, just like the outside.

wall1.png                   wall2.png

Now as for some fun, and accent lighting we can place LED strips ( 50 cm 5050 LED with milk white cover) on the bottom of the sofa, which can also act as night light.  We will do the same at the drawer/closets next to the bed.  On Ebay we found some built in LED dimmers (24V).

 

Screen Shot 2017-01-05 at 9.13.49.png

Screen Shot 2017-01-05 at 9.14.03.png

 

 

5050-led.png

1st May 21017
So the pillows came in and they fitted well, but it looks like the height size is without filling. We can deal with it later to add a colored stripe on it or so

Here are Wilma and Timmy.
sofa_wilma.JPG