Now what do we do with electric…….we have 220 V, 12V, 24V . when do we use what?
Lets view what we have we have 220V from shore, and we have 220V from the inverters ( 2 X 300 W Mutliplus 24V)
In order minimize DC losses we use 24 V, but the engine is 12V and some equipment, like VHF, N2K is only 12V
Lighting can be gotten in 220V and 24V. Many of the older Led lights are 220V with a transformer going to 12 or 24 V. So if 24 V led’s are available we use them, so we cut the transformer losses. At the same time the 24 V is not always 24 V it can go as high as 29. For the rest we use 220V, like appliances.
We will leave the starter battery for ONLY the engine and the engine critical systems.
The starter battery wil be maintained on a float charge with its own small charger.
All other systems will be connected to the house batteries wit a DC-DC converter
which can also be used to charge the 12V battery.
Just a fun side note. It is cheaper to buy most Victron stuff in the US and bring it back to Europe. Yes we can get BTW/VAT back if we buy equipment in Europe, but then we have to take it back to the USA in original packaging and then schlep it back. Much easier to buy a cheap suitcase, load it with equipment and check it in when flying over.
For switches I found that Carling switches can be etched with pretty much any text and symbol. I found rocketswitchpros.com and newwiremarine.com deliver these . ( They are the same company, just a few price differences and offerings in the different websites….Don’t forget ‘marine’ is usually more expensive). Only problem is …only available in 12 V. So I had to google and find out a supplier who did the 12V Carling Contura body. The 24 V is important because of the back light/ on-off indicator light. Carling has a nice data sheet online which is self explanatory, except there was no code to 220V switches. After a few emails I found out it was 5, B = 24 V, D = 12V. the switch covers can be exchanged. I selected series V.
Some switches came with the remote battery switches. I am using the Blueseas systems PN 7700, which also have a manual option. They switch, but don’t need power to stay in the open or closed postion. Why pay about $140 more for a remote battery switch versus a manual one? Simple, safety, now I don’t have to go in the engine compartment or in the back cabin where the batteries are, in case of an emergency. Why not put a ‘manual’ switch at the helm, so it is close? Because of voltage drop. Now the switch is right next to the inverter. Lets look to cost, and we wil only use the house battery for fun. If the manual switch was around the helm, there would be about 2 cables of 16 feet. Lets go for full load 6000 watt. At 24V that would be about 250 Amps. Allowing a 3% voltage drop, means 2/0 AWG cables ( 70 mm ) a 200 watt los. Plus it would cost about $200 in cables, include the manual battery switch and you are at a total cost of about $240, so $60 higher. I’d rather spend on Hertog Jan beer. ( A case of 24 bottles is about E16, so with 4 cases of Hertog Jan I can bribe Daniel to do ALL the electric cabling.)
We added a nice large piece of plywood above the fuel tank to mount all the electric equipment on. The 220 lines are inside the pvc pipes and marked by a label with some clear heatsink over it.
This way the lines are very well marked and putting the clear heatsink over it protects the writing
Last year we got 8 6 V 330 AH Mastervolt batteries (ManualAGM6V120626) for a steal, E750 via marktplaats. With Oving1’s boom we loaded them into the back hold and split them up in 2 groups of 4.
Daniel made the connector wires and wired them up to a double fuse box, where we mounted large Battery fuses and a 100 Amp DC fuse for the 24 V system and a small 6A fuse for the Battery Shunt.
here we see from left to right . Fuse box with 2 big fuses, a positive 24V to the inverter
The top grey box is the 220V AC out , Line A output from the inverter ( UPS line and the lines are rated for only 16 amp, which needs to be replaced by 32 A wires ( once we install the 2nd inverter). The 32 A is important for the induction cooking
The lower grey box is the box for the 220 V AC shore power in, so we can branch from there to the two inverters.
The 100 Amp DC fuse which goes to the front breaker panel, the fuse for the positive MPPT
A bit lower 2 negative going to the BMV shunt and on the other side the negative of the MPPT
Then the first Multiplus, a space for the 2nd Multi plus (currently one is being used on Oving1.) and the MPPT
Pic fuse box
Pic DC fuses