Some calculations about heating.

The barge is divided in 4 spaces.

  1. Front Locker (with water)    3*2 *1  = 6 M3
  2. Main Living space, with the bathroom area   10 * 3 * 2  = 60 M( and bathroom area  1* 3 * 2 = 6M3)
  3. Pilot House   3.82* 2.23* 2  = 17 M3
  4. Rear Cabin   ( once converted ) 3 * 2.5 * 1.8  = 13.5 M3

There are a lot of opinions on how much energy is needed to heat the space.  Googling and asking installers for quotes.  Some put extra weight in measuring the windows, others just measure the size of the cabin, and each has a different multiplier.    http://www.calculator.net/btu-calculator.html.  Ron the heating guy, living close to the Marina in Zaandam  throws out 70 W per M3.  Hornbach suggests 100 W/m3

Now the Pilot is drafty, and needs to be sealed.
There is a door between the pilot house and the main living space, so that can be closed off, otherwise all the heat escapes to there.

Maritme booster offered a mini solo II for 17KW  @5485
Kabola offered 13,500 KW  a KB 40 @6573  @ 4 working days

Amsterdam average temp January 37 F (3C)   lowest 20 F  -6C
Warming 30 C (  -10 – >20)    ( 14F -> 68)

For the living room I come up with
Using http://www.calculator.net/btu-calculator.html I see 5.5 KW
Using Ron’s rule of tumb I come up with 4.2  ( Hornbach = 6 KW)
So safe to say 6 KW

The bathroom is already in that calculation, but we will ad a radiator which can warm towels (thermostat on radiator, plus it has to be ‘verzinkt’ so it can be better in humid conditions)

The frontlocker, uninsulated will just get one small radiator, to prevent he water from freezing 2 *3.4 *1 *.5 ( l*w*h*slope) 3.4 M3 (frost free thermostat on radiator 200 watt?)

The pilot house 1.5 KW  (thermostat on radiator) ( Hornbach =1.7 Kw) (frost free thermostat on radiator)

Rear Bedroom  1 KW   so we need a total of over 9 KW  so a 13-17 KW heater is sufficient (frost free thermostat on radiator)

Now space….we have  3 windows 90 cm wide  100 CM high so we can place 3 * 80 * 60 radiators  ( 2 windows are in the walk path, s we need to keep thin ones there, one window is in the string area, so we can use a double one there)
PLUS we need to put a radiator close to the front opening


The radiators will have to have bottom connections, then we can use a shut of valve so we can remove a radiator when it gets bad.
The system has to be filled with coolant, to prevent freezing, since the boat is not being used year round.


Type 11   7 cm
Type 21   8 cm
Type22  11 cm
Type 33 16 cm

There are many discount radiator places. Some of the radiators I saw at https://www.cvtotaal.nl

Brugman Kompakt 4 Type 11 L800 H500   814 watt     ( about E50)
Brugman Kompakt 4 Type 21s L800 H500   1100 watt   ( about E 66)
Brugman Kompakt 4 Type 22 L800 H500   1474 watt   ( about E 90)
Brugman Kompakt 4 Type 33 L800 H500   2080 watt   ( about E 120)

with 3 windows we get 3 * 1474   =  4450 watt ad another in the front for 600 Watt. We can add one behind the sofa 1100 watt  and we are at 5500

Since we are modifying the wall behind the bed we could put a radiator here.   about 40 cm high, but it can be 160 cm long  (800 – 1000 watt)
Now not sure how we do the on/off behind bed…….

Now that could suffice, but we want safety…but we are out of places…so we can use ‘plint verwarming’a small heat exchanger with a fan under cabinets (sofa).  A kickspace.
They can generate between 700 -1200 Watt   50 cm wide 10 cm high  they are a tad more expensive E350
But we can mount one in the kitchen and one in the sofa, and only turn them on when it really gets freezing.  The water has to be over 50C in order to turn on…….( but it looks like if you put it in summer setting it will always flow)
another extra option is a Webasto air blower  Madera 4 or 8  between E 200 – E500

In the bathroom we will put a small towel radiator, now why not do the same on the other side.   (one problem the left side is ‘covered’ by the door to the pilot house and the right used..the wall is storing the sliding bathroom door)

For the pilot house we will use one radiator and a kickspace

The lines out for the wall have to be spaced 5 cm from each other

A few weeks later,  having had more idle time on my hand I was able to create a spread sheet with more dimensions and sizes, and run a bunch of scenarios coming up with what seems to be a very good mix.   We want to keep the radiators on one hand as ‘thin’ as possible.  The size does not really matter much since it is just a curved wall, which along we walk.   So lets make the sizes a bit larger and then we can make the radiators a size thinner.
So now the thinking goes to   either of these .  each about 8700 W
Port side 700 * 900 size 22 -21-22  (2100-1700-2100)
Bed 500 * 1200 size 21 (1750)
Next to the sofa and behind the washer 700 * 500 size 22 (1200)

Port side 600 * 900 size 22 -21-22 (2000-1500-2000)
Bed 500 * 1200 size 21 .  (1750)
Next to the sofa and behind the washer 700 * 500 size 33 . (1700)

Well Ron came on Wednesday, while we were modifying the layout.  And looking to placing etc, he was quite adamant about using size 11 radiators.  3 on the port side, which each will be around 900 Watt, putting radiators above the bed and behind the sofa , was a non-no, so we opted for the radiator unit blowing hot air out of 3 outlets which would give us 2 KW,    So Friday 28th we started on the starboard side laying the lines, and making sure the T was approx 5 cm from each other.  Marc kept being puzzled about the 5 cm, until he used the hydraulic unit to put the clamps on , and the opening is ….just less than 5 cm.


Wall opened up for the lines


We opened the walls also in the shower area, just so we could get the lines through


Here Marius and Marc are putting the last wall plate back, and leaving a extra connection on the port side for a radiator

The walls are made of thin poplar multiplex, so Ron suggested some ‘butterfly’ inserts where a bolt with phillips head can go-in.  Because the electric and water and cv lines are hidden.

The first radiator installed, and Ron is explaining to Mark how the connections work.

Here you see Mark making the connection to the last radiator.
Unfortunately Marius had installed the wrong panels when these two were cutting the holes through the wood, so the holes were not under the center of the first window, but by using the most right connections the radiator was hanging nicely in the center of the bed, and far enough back to have a good landing place from the steps.

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Here is the end result

The day before we were leaving Ron came aboard to discuss the final install.    There we learned that the thermostat needed 4 wires,  and “why did you not install the hot air unit more complete and oh it also needed 2 wires”cv_thermostat_line

We had pulled with great effort 2 wires from the port side of the wheel house through a steel wall to the steps, through wood and steel to the living room, then removed the ceiling panels to pull the wires above the ceiling panels that way so they would not be visible.    We had made the trough holes as small as possible, so we had to gently chisel them larger, without cutting/damaging the first 2 wires we pulled.   And we had to add the 2 extra lines for the hot air unit.  So a total of 4 wires.  (IF IF we had known this before we would have pulled one round wire with 6 signal wires in it)  We placed the thermostat on the side of the white cup board and decided to just pull the extra set of wies down to the the bilge, lead them under the floor to the sofa and bring them up from there.




Here is the part of the sofa that houses the hot air unit.  On the side of the sofa there are 2 little sensors, one mounted high and the other low.  They have not been put in place because we could not find the correct nails/screws yet.




The blower unit is mounted on top of a tilted piece of ply wood on top of the neopreen rubber with zip ties, to minimize vibration.  To the left there is a control unit and the 24 V DC supply.

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