Well it really means, we just landed in Schiphol ( Amsterdam Airport), get your smartphone out, log into vrm.victronenergy.com, go to jan-kees, go to the console, and press the start button , so it wil… More
Well it was just using Dutch tradition……wordplay…..giving it meaning…..and trying to show what we are.
So Jan-Kees is a very common Dutch name. But as you know the Dutch founded New Amsterdam, which the Brits renamed to New York, after they had an arm wrestle with Peter Stuyvesant in 1664. The Dutch got even with the Brits by sucessfuly invading England in 1688, after Michiel de Ruyter kicked the British navy around a bit in 1667. A good movie actually.
Many American words, are left over of the West India Company settlement of New Amsterdam/York. Like cookie instead of the English Biscuit, Harlem of the Dutch City Haarlem. You will find many Dutch town in NY state. The same is said for the term Yankee.(wikipedia) Pronounce Jan-Kees as an Native American speaker and you will hear “Yankee” .
So Jan-Kees embraces both Dutch and American. Now to further seal the duality, the port of registration is Amsterdam, Texas ( since Deb is from Texas)
We did had quite a lot of very hard wind and some rain during the night. There was an whole army of meerkoeten just in front of the boat having breakfast.
We set of around 9 with quite a bit of wind and very choppy water. After the Kager plassen we turned onto the Haarlemmer Meer Ringvaart , and around 09:30 the engine started sputtering, and died. Restarting only gave it life for a few seconds. I steered it to the shore with the road, Deb jumped off and attached a mooring line to a traffic sign. I jumped off and hammered a stake in ground to secure the 2nd line. Next was going in the engine room and checking the fuel lines. I got to a point where there was diesel coming out of the fuel filter, but the engine still only kept running a short period. Daniel gave advice how more to check the lines, which I dutyfully did. Yet still no running engine. I called the harbor master of Kever Haven and she gave us a number of a local shop. Unfortunately they were closed till 10, But the harbor master had a private number of the owner, called him and secured us a mechanic at 10:30. Deb and I just settled won sipping coffee. I tried to start the engine one more time and it ran a little bit, but died again…so we waited. Sharp at 10:30 Hugo came. I explained the situation and we started the engine…….and it kept running…and running. Hugo started following the fuel lines, and remarked that one fitting was kinda ‘loose’. Because these are copper lines, he asked if there were inserts in, to prevent it from being tightened so much that it totally closed the lines. I had NO clue, so I put Daniel on the phone.
We ran the engine for about 20 minutes and then attached a second rope and ran the engine on full speed with engaged propeller for 10 minutes. it seems the air in the line was gone, by the wait period. so we went on.
The leimuiderbrug which had us waiting on the way to Delft opened up within minutes of requesting. Actually all bridges opened very quickly, especially in Amsterdam.
Once out of Amsterdam we had a quite rough Noordzee Kanaal towards Zaandam, where we filled up 100 L Diesel at the bunker station, so that we have enough for heating this winter. All and all a very fun and enjoyable 6 day trip!
So this Sunday morning we set of at 09:00 and when we arrived at the first bridge in Delft, de Hambrug, there was no response to a few VHF Hails. Looking on the ANWB app, it showed , NO SERVICE until 10 AM Sunday’s. So we decided to moor up at the side. Just when we were moored, I saw the telephone number on the ANWB App and called it, The lady at Leidschendam Central said , NO we start working at 9 AM, so we will open the bridge for you . Relieved we set off, and when ever we got close to a bridge, we quickly saw the red-red change into Red-Green.
Then past the Koepoort brug, we saw a bunch of skiff rowers. LAGA the Student rowing club was out in full force, and being Skiff rowers, THEY owned the canal, according to their behavior. We kept encountering them, paying absolutely no attention to the people around them. Then we arrive at the Hoorn Brug, where the height is 4.1 Meter and the movable part is 2.4 M . So we aim for the 4.1 Meter, we stopped to let some skiff rowers pass, and slowly ease in. While we are under the bridge, a 6 person skiff comes in and bitches and tells us to use the other side. Just past the bridge there was another whole swarm of skiff rowers.
The central bridge control, gives us the go ahead for the nieuwe and oude Tolbrug Den Haag, and they turn the lights Red-Green on the Kerk Brug. And surprise surprise, a Police car stops and waves to us and point to the mooring place. I start to chuckle….bloody Students …their manhood must have been hurt by us not bowing to them. Deb throws the rope, the bridge opens, I hail Leidschendam Control, and tell them sorry we can’t make the bridge the police stopped us. So when we are tied up the 2 police offers look and look and look and blurt out “we can not come aboard now” . Well that is NOT my problem.. YOU directed us to tie up there.
I do my story. “there are 2 openings..One I can go through without interrupting traffic the other is too low for us, there are yellow light , which means watch out. We are in the bridge and the rowers demand we move away for them, while they could have used the other” . The police asks a few more questions. like what is your length, are you a commercial, because I see a registration number there. (the US Coast Guard registration) Then they want to see some ID of me, to which I reply “sure come aboard”, creating dumb founded looks. So I throw out “wait ..I’ll text them to you ” The police hails some other person on their radio and wish us a great day and leave. We continue our trip and just before Leidschendam lock a person in an official jacket of Rijks Waterstaat, the ministry which controls the waterways, on a moped shouts at us “are you continuing ?” “Yes to Zaandam” was my reply. “O’K . I have something for you “. I think Holy Mackerel what do they want NOW ??????
We enter the lock an elderly lady comes close and takes the mooring line from Deb. I step ashore, and I see that person of the central control. “We saw all what happend and overheard it, so we wanted to give you a present”. He hands me a brochure “how to sail safe”, I look a bit surprised, he smiles and hands me a key hanger. “Yes the brochure is for the rowers next time, just give it to them, they are always a BIG problem” we all chuckled.
Onwards we went to Leiden, where our main delay would probably be the railway bridge, so just as we are ready to throw lines over a bollard, we see the light go Red-Green ! wow no wait time and we continue. Arrived at Kever Haven at 13:30
Here is Today’s Track
The hunt for the water which on occasion seeps in. and collects in the bilge. Over the past 3 years we have identified a few things which causes water to collect in the bilge. Water should be removed, for rust and for mold. We have seen a few windows which were leaking, and this year with painting the outside , we have also varnished the windows enough and caulked them enough that when it rains, there is no more water coming in. Still some water kept appearing, silently , just as the Red October with Sean Connery did. Because of Deb’s Bday dinner, Renate and Remy spend the night on the boat. In the morning Deb and Renate went bargain hunting, while Remy helped me with a few small jobs, like fixing the new wire to the key contact. We also discussed blowers in the bilge and tried to come up with ways to improve the wheel house, in regards to rain diversion. While we were exploring these options, I also showed Remy how some wiring was running and pulled the new pilot house carpentry away we discovered that there was quite a bit of water standing. The water seeps in via the wooden top and the steel work. The wooden window frames rest on a 35 MM wide L beam, but because the wood is the same width, the water slowly drips between the wood and the steel. When I made the new pilot house control console, I did noticed there was rust already, which I then removed and treated with Owatrol. This coming week I will put a thin strip of wood over the edge, and caulk the top , so that the water is diverted to the steel instead of the top.
A 9 meter boat with Belgians arrived and we admired their folding bikes
At night Deb and I went to the Market to listen to some Jazz and have a beer and Bitterballen en ‘olijfjes”
While walking to the Market we encountered a cute Ford, which is not sold in the USA
A Ford Ka
Yes today it is Deb’s Birthday, and she was gently woken up by the smell of fresh crispy bacon and coffee. First order is move the boat, since the Swaen wants to move out and there are free spots on the dock.
After we moved I turned on the Kabola, so we could take a nice long hot shower, but grabbing the valve switch I saw that one on the electric control lines was loose. Must have happened when I was scowering round there figuring out why the breaker for the heating outlets kept switching off ( While installing the 24V DC line to the 24V Breaker box, I must have pulled the wires in the main heating switch, causing it to earth leak) Since there were many wires, I tried hunting the manual, but remembered I never had one. So I grabbed a quick picture of the valve and saw that I had to reconnect the brown wire. Blue is Neutral, Green is Vetus, Brown is Kabola to the switch .
Problem solved and a hot shower, in the mean time the harbor emptied itself. A few barges passed by, one with the text “Here (sails) goes a sixteen 18 wheeler caravan” . This is probably done to show the grumbling people who whine about the bridge openings. Remember how efficient transport by water is, compared to road.
A bit later a gravel barge came along. Here you can see how it has to slowly maneuver to go around the bend here in Delft.
Then just before 18:00 the Michielsen Gang showed up, fully packed and loaded. Lindy and Roy were going afterwards to a party in Goes. Once seated the big question was ” when will Marius and Wilma arrive” .. 2 minutes later. After the obligatory Dutch way of congratulation everybody with Deb’s Birthday, we had coffee and beer in the common, group therapy circle, so well described in the many books written by Ex-Pats about the Dutch.
At 18:00 Matthijs showed up with his electric sloop to take us round the Delft Canals. Where to great joy of Marius, he revealed that in the middle ages, Delft was the Beer brewery center of Holland with over 400 breweries. And as cute fact, the roads along the canals angle towards, the canals, so that it was less work rolling the barges into the barges for transport.
As you can see there were a few very very low bridges. As Renata, just recovers, from the Bridge duck and sees another great building. Matthijs dropped us off close to the Beesten markt, where we went to Spijshuis De Dis for Deb’s tasting Birthday dinner.
The staff was excellent. At a sudden moment Marius asked for a cup of coffee. Deb quickly quipped….that must be in a beer glass, you can’t drink coffee, so the staff obliged.
Then wen Daniel needed a beer, we were able to have him sip it out of a coffee cup, since Daniel never drinks coffee.
The silence at Kever haven was deafening and blinding. We must have gone deaf, because it was so darn quiet and we did not had to close any of the drapes! Sleep was peaceful. We woke up to an overcast sky, with ‘buienradar’ telling us we would get some rain. When leaving Jan was stupid enough to break the silence by playing his ‘bye-bye . au revoir’ MP3 over the loudspeakers.
After turning onto the Kager plassen Deb took the wheel for a bit, because the PC-Navigo display on the PC was not giving us any directions.
But after some fiddling, it showed us the route to Leiden. We encountered quite a bit of heron’s and swans, even a really big one.
As you can see it is kinda funny being in a boat, and seeing the water higher than the houses. We were looking over house roofs, while just being in the boat.
Then we encountered Leiden, a bunch of bridges and then a railway bridge. This bridge ONLY opens on .34 and 04 every hour. So I checked in via VHF and was told, be ready at 10.31. 10:31 came and went …we waited and waited but no change of lights. Overheard a large commercial asking for the time and he was told 10:59, because a train would be passing by at 10:56. So a bit more delay, but who cares in retired life ! Then at 10:56 NO train, yet the lights changed and we were able to get through and on our way to Leidschendam. During our wait, a few more boats gathered, one barge like ours, called “Energy II” a Tug boat and a small boat, so I let the barge, who seemed in a hurry pass and heard he was going to Schiedam. Great now he can speed ahead, call the bridge keepers and make it easy for us. Seeing the Leidschendam windmill Deb got ready for the lock.
Getting closer to the lock we saw a new way of cleaning your dog…..just let him jump in the water while on the leash.
And then the lock ……a quaint old fashioned hand controlled lock, with 2 bridges, in the center of the town. Energie II, the barge going to Schiedam peeked out to see if we all could fit in it, and after a few moment waved us to follow him. Slowly we eased ourself into the lock, with the lock master assisting with directions, while the diners looked on. The ropes got on and we had a few leisurely minutes to snap picture.
After Leidschendam onwards to Den Haag. Den Haag has Heron’s in its coat of arms, and we saw these buggers nearly everywhere ever since we left the Kager Plassen.
Just passed the hoornbrug we saw the new cycling bridge, a light structure that swings to the side instead of up.
We also passed the of LAGA building, where the student ‘corps’ of Delft University rows. When we left Sunday, I was reminded why I never liked LAGA.
Then we arrived at the Delft harbor, where because of lack of space we had to moor along side another boat. Looking around I saw a nice new built Dutch barge model “Vrijbuiter”. Looking in the DBA guide, I found out they we members, a new Zealand guy and his French wife and 2 kids, who were going to cruise Europe for 2 years.
5.2 engine hours
So we wanted to see Delft Jazz this weekend, plus Frank is throwing his USA BBQ this Saturday, thus…barging from Zaandam to Delft 72.8 KM with many bridges and some locks. The locks in Holland are nowhere near the ones on the Ohio River, or the French Frexeneit locks. The dutch ones are modest, 2- 4 inches sometimes 6-8 inches, don’t forget may times the canals in Holland are 5 – 8 feet above ground level. Just fun , sitting on the barge, and seeing only the roofs of house along the roads.
We set of at 10:00, checklist completed, mast lowered and off we went to Amsterdam, because the quicker route via Haarlem is not passable for recreational boats. The Haarlem lock being close to the big IJmuiden sealocks was bringing in too much salt water. remember, the driest summer in ages.
Did the Zaan then The North Sea Canal, then de oude hout haven and onto the first set of bridges on the Kostverloren Gracht, all went smooth until….the nieuwe meersluis. Last year that was a clusterfuck, and today was a upper CF. When we arrived the lock was opening and a swarm of little boats sped out, the other large boat in front of us was ready to go in, when……the lock closed…..a quick call on the VHF got us the answer ” I had to close it because I am changing shift, my colleague will open it up and have you on your way soon” so we waited . and waited and …the lock started filling from the other side…so we puttered around, wind blowing. Offcourse the little sloops and a few speedboats were jostling for position, even though there was no opening in sight. Got a few times close to them, especially when the only looked forward. Finally over an hour after we arrived the locked opened on our side. A few small boats were trying to get in first, and I did shouted loud to deb ” they have no clue that IF I loose control, we will be totally making them flat like a can of Sardines” . Which caused a chuckle with a few of the more controlled boaters. Once in the lock it took forever to be lowered the 1 inch if that. Most likely the new lock keeper was emptying the lock with a 5 gallon bucket.
But off we went onwards to Schiphol, the Ringvaart van de Haarlemmer meer polder.
Next bridge, Schiphol draaibrug, where we were told to wait 15 minutes, so we attached a line and turned of the engine. A small boat moored along side. The lights jumped to red-green, so I turned the key. Yet NO sound, besides the buzzer. No starter, no noise. Bloody Hell. Ok Deb jumped to my help, moving things away, so I could jump it no the belly of the beast and slay whatever horrors were not allowing us to leave. I decided to to a Mike Cockran solution and bypass the starter solenoid, while trying to do so , I saw a loose connection.
And voila, the beast sprung alive. I haled Schiphol Draaibrug again, apologized and quite quickly the bridge opened.
After de ringvaart we came to the westeinder plassen, a very nice typical polder scene. The canal with many small boats along the sides and houses lower than the canal. I found a mooring place in the Kager plassen and dialed them. The manager lady was very nice and reminded me that the Leimuiderbrug is closed for recreational boating from 16:00-18:00. it was 15:25 and 3 KM to go, so we should be OK. BUT for safety lets speed up a bit. Well J-K listened and started going faster and faster and got up to 15 KM/hr. after a bit I did hear a sputter but the engine picked up again, so I slowed a bit and kept going at around 12 km/hr. Then . ….silence…engine died……turning the key..NOTHING. Holy Moley . …I am barreling down a canal at 12 KM/hr and I have no engine…not much control. trying to steer as good as I could the barge slowed down, but because of the wind an no real good rudder action, the barge was barreling towards some sloops on the side of the canal. I dashed forward, and was able to lasso a mooring pole and let the barge kinda bang into it, stopping it. It did resulted into the ‘Remy Manoeuvre” invented by ( then only ) Ltcl R Michielsen of the Royal Dutch airforce. Where he decided to block the canal du Briare from potentially harmful airplane.
Together with Deb we tried to get the stern to shore, but no success. We waved a small sloop down and with their aide and pushed the stern in so I could secure a second mooring line.
So this was the second calamity today. Ok no sound nothing, so no voltage. Ok lets test first if we have 12V. Well the ONLY thing on the engine battery is the head. Well that worked. next step opening the engine panel. ..A rats nest of wires ….voltmeter out and lets see where we have voltage. Starting with the key switch, none of the contacts had 12V… GREAT another contact that cant stand the ‘good good good vibrations” ( Beach boys). lets follow the wires…..well it would be easier to explain some tax code to 2 year old Amelia !!!! So grab wire, cutters, tools and lets fabricate quickly a wire from the battery to the key switch. Deb was a perfect emergency assistant! Wire done, pressed on what looked like the main 12V ‘contact ‘ of the switch and yes …it was “alive” ( short circuit). But we arrived at 16:12 at the bridge, and moored at the restaurant the marina lady told us about . It was time to give Deb enough Wine to not worry. BUT ..lets call the bridge keeper on VHF to confirm he won’t open for us. The answer we got “Correct I won’t open for recreation boats, BUT you are in luck in about 15 minutes I am expecting a commercial, and you can get through after him”. We looked and Deb was really in need of some beer and food. But gave in to the fact that we could save and hour waiting. So we grabbed the beer from the fridge, chips and olives and sat down on the bow.
15 minutes later….NO commercial yet….mmm should I call the restaurant and see how quickly they can make bitterballen ? No so we kept sitting and then 10 minutes later the bridge opens. Rushed to the back and started the engine, and went through. A bit later we arrived at the mooring ‘keverhaven’ . a really nice peaceful nature mooring.
6.5 Engine Hours
36 Liters of Diesel